It was 20 hours to the wedding, and I knelt on the floor of my Brooklyn apartment beneath a rumbling AC unit, frantically fanning a 14-inch pan of white cake. This was to be my best friend’s wedding cake. And I, its unlikely baker. The day had passed in a haze of Swans Down. Now here I was, clock ticking, Band-Aids on my forearms, and five of eight cakes still yet to be baked. I’d barely pulled this one from the oven in time.
Mountain climbing’s Mt. Everest. Bicycling’s Tour de France. Tennis’s Wimbledon. Every pursuit has its pinnacle. For the home baker, it may just be the wedding cake. For me it was. I’ve loved to bake since jamming my first fistful of flour into an Easy-Bake Oven. So when my childhood best friend began planning her wedding, asking guests to contribute something personal to the intimate ceremony, I knew my die had been cast. By God, I would bake the wedding cake.
My qualifications? For one, I own an oven and pay my gas bill. And while my baking repertoire consists only of a serviceable single-tiered cake for the occasional birthday, I do possess a will to learn. I started at ground zero: Google, hoarding recipes, video tutorials, and Pinterest photos into an enormous folder. The volume was comforting, the content was not. Beneath all of the Internet’s “easy,” step-by-step guides, was a comment section wherein lay a dark sub-narrative—of brides late for their ceremony, hopelessly piping melting frosting, of gorgeous flowers lacing cakes with poisonous pesticide residue, of the cakes that scorched or sunk or smashed on the kitchen floor at the feet of some luckless baker who started out just like me.
“Oh, my God. You’re so crazy,” said Betsy Thorleifson, founder of Brooklyn’s Nine Cakes studio. She eyed me with the kind of respect you reserve for nervous animals whose potential for erratic movement requires keeping a distance. Betsy bakes dreamily perfect cakes that look more akin to a Pixar creation than to anything you make from flour. Her bakery, which she opened without any professional training, produces the borough’s most delicious and desired sweets (the fact that she’s signed nondisclosures should hint to her caliber of clientele). I was sure if anyone could help me it was Betsy. “When people first asked me if I did wedding cakes I said ‘No, that sounds stressful. It’s someone’s big day,’ ” said Betsy, prompting the onset of a vague nausea that would accompany me through to the cake cutting. “I never bake at home. I can’t even imagine. Especially a cake for 200.” Gripping the tabletop where we sat in her sunny Cobble Hill storefront, I leveled with Betsy. “Ultimately,” she conceded, “if you start with a trusted recipes and follow the directions it should go smoothly.” With a rigorously tested recipe in mind, I passed Betsy’s first criterion. “Having the right tools, like a turntable, a good serrated knife, an offset spatula, and a bench scraper would make it easier,” she further proffered. Betsy’s final advice? “I guess fake it till you make it?” I could do that.
It was around 1:00 a.m. when my co-chef, my mom, arrived. “Please watch the videos,” I pleaded as she lugged her baggage up the staircase, bleary-eyed from a cross-country flight. I had emailed her The Folder. After a dreamless sleep, the sun rose and we began, hitting the oven with the swiftness of a special ops midnight raid. We measured and leveled each cup and teaspoon, barely breathing until we slid it onto the rack and set the timer. From there, confidence waned, blood sugar plummeted, and the heavy-handled whisk repeatedly fell out of the frosting bowl and onto the floor—cools were lost. But, one by one, we baked each cake, mixing frosting and cooking curd while the pans were in the oven. Eighteen hours and thirteen pounds of butter later, we shut off the oven.
The finished wedding cake, decorated with delicate flowers
Photo: Courtesy of Elizabeth Inglese
Bright the next day, in a slow-moving Uber, the white cake with vanilla bean butter cream, passion fruit curd, and raspberries made it to the church, where we dressed it in a simple wreath of flowers. Though in the fray I forgot my heels at home, balancing tiptoe on the altar, I watched my best friend marry the love her life, and after they said, “I do,” we ate cake.
The Recipes
White Wedding Cake
Adapted from Cook’s Country
This recipe will yield two 8- to 9-inch layers, which is suitable for a middle tier. For a top tier of 6 inches, adjust volumes to 2/3. For a bottom tier of 12 inches, you’ll need to quadruple this recipe. Because the capacity of your mixer may not allow for that volume, you can double the recipe, mixing the batter for each of the two 12-inch pans separately. Mix only enough batter for the cakes that will be going directly into the oven. (If excess batter sits around, the leavening agents could fizzle out.)
Note: Reserve the egg yolks left behind in this recipe if you plan on making a curd.
Ingredients
2 1/4 cups cake flour, plus more for dusting pans
1 cup whole milk, room temperature
6 large egg whites, room temperature
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups (12 1/4 ozs.) sugar
4 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
12 T unsalted butter, softened but still cool
Instructions
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease two 9-inch or three 8-inch round cake pans, line with parchment paper, grease parchment, and flour pans. Wrap pans with dampened insulating strips.
2. Mix milk, egg whites, and vanilla together in 2-cup measuring cup. Using stand mixer fitted with paddle, mix flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt on low speed until combined, about 5 seconds. Add butter, one piece at a time, and mix until only pea-size pieces remain, about 1 minute.
3. Add half of milk mixture, increase speed to medium-high, and beat until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Reduce speed to medium-low, add remaining milk mixture, and beat until incorporated, about 30 seconds (batter may look slightly curdled). Give batter final stir by hand.
4. Divide batter evenly between prepared pans and smooth tops with rubber spatula. Bake until tops are light golden and toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, rotating pans halfway through baking. (See baking times below.) Let cakes cool in pans on wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cakes from pans, discarding parchment, and let cool completely on rack, about 2 hours, then wrap in plastic and store in the freezer.
Baking times:
6-inch: 16 to 20 minutes
8-inch: 18 to 22 minutes
9-inch: 20 to 24 minutes
12-inch: 35 to 45 minutes
Vanilla Bean Buttercream
This frosting will coat and fill a three-tier cake with a bottom tier of 12 inches and a top of 6 inches. You will need to halve or quarter the recipe to suit the capacity of your mixer, preparing in batches.
Adapted from The Cake Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum (William Morrow & Co., 1988)
Yield: 8 cups
Ingredients
24 large egg yolks
3 cups sugar
2 cups corn syrup
8 cups unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup pure vanilla bean paste (not extract or flavoring)
Instructions
1. Grease with butter a heatproof glass measuring cup near the range.
2. In a bowl, beat the yolks with an electric mixer until light in color.
3. Meanwhile, combine the sugar and corn syrup in a small saucepan (preferably with a nonstick lining) and heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup comes to a rolling boil. (The entire surface will be covered with large bubbles.) Immediately transfer the syrup to the glass measuring cup to stop the cooking.
4. If using an electric handheld mixer, beat the syrup into the yolks in a steady stream. Don’t allow syrup to fall on the beaters or they will spin it onto the sides of a bowl. If using a stand mixer, pour a small amount of syrup over the yolks with the mixer turned off. Immediately beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Stop the mixer and add a larger amount of syrup. Beat at high speed for 5 seconds. Continue with the remaining syrup. For the last addition, use a rubber scraper to remove the syrup clinging to the glass measure. Continue beating until completely cool.
5. Gradually beat in the butter and vanilla bean paste. Place in an airtight bowl. Bring to room temperature before using.
Passion Fruit Curd
Yield: Approximately 2 cups
Ingredients
8 large egg yolks
1/2 cup 100 percent passion fruit juice (beware of juice cocktails)
1 cup white sugar
1/8 tsp. salt
10 T unsalted butter, cold and cut into cubes
Instructions
1. Combine egg yolks, passion fruit juice, and sugar in a heavy-bottom saucepan; whisk to combine. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon (be sure to scrape the sides of the pan), until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Remove saucepan from heat. Add salt and butter, one piece at a time, stirring until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve into a medium bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it directly onto the surface of the curd to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until chilled and set, at least 1 hour.
Assembly
1. Start with the largest cakes, which will comprise the bottom tier. Place one onto a cardboard round and rest it on your turner. Coat it with a thin layer of frosting (a crumb coat).
2. Pipe a thick snake of frosting around the perimeter of the cake, creating a wall to keep in filling.
3. Spoon a quarter-inch-thick layer of curd on the surface of the cake.
4. Pipe a tight swirl of buttercream on top of the curd, moving from the outside edge to the inside.
5. Press raspberries (or any fruit) onto the surface. You want fruit in every bite of cake, but not so much that it displaces all the frosting.
6. Take your second large cake and place it on top of the first. Cover the entire tier with a thin coat of frosting, shoring up any spillage of filling.
7. Cover loosely with plastic and place in freezer or refrigerator.
8. Repeat with the middle and top tiers.
9. Allow tiers to set up in freezer/refrigerator overnight.
10. When you’re ready to assemble, place your bottom tier onto a sturdy presentation board, which could be a round of heavy cardboard, wood, or something more decorative.
11. Lay the middle-sized cardboard round on top of the bottom tier. Mark its dimensions so you can see where the next tier will lay, then remove it.
12. Measure the height of the bottom tier and cut five wooden dowels to length. Plunge them into the cake inside the perimeter of the area that you marked. The dowels will support the next tier.
13. Take the middle tier of the cake and place it on its cardboard round.
14. Repeat the doweling process for the middle tier and place it on top of the bottom tier.
15. Put the smallest tier onto its cardboard round and place it on top of the cake.
16. Once all three tiers are stacked, take one very long dowel and sharpen it well with a pencil sharpener. Measure the height of the cake and cut the dowel to length. It should be a quarter-inch shorter than the cake. Find the center of the top of the cake and fearlessly plunge the dowel through the entire cake, cardboard and all. The sharpened tip will allow it to pass through.
17. Coat the cake in another layer of frosting, starting at the top tier and working downward, smoothing everything over with the offset spatula and bench scraper, hiding the dowel hole.
18. Decorate however you like. A few fresh flowers may be all you need.
The Essential Tools
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